Textile Notes

Polartec Fleece, Viscose Fabric, and Cooling Towels: A Buyer's FAQ

I'm the purchasing administrator for a utility contractor with about 300 field employees. I process 60–80 orders a year for uniforms, cold-weather gear, and heat-safety items, which means crew leaders treat me as their fabric help desk. These are the questions I get asked most, minus the email chains.

What is Polartec?

Polartec is a brand name, not a kind of knit or a single fabric recipe. When someone asks me about Polartec fleece, they usually mean a polyester fleece made by Polartec or by a licensed apparel brand using Polartec fabric. The company's history goes back to Malden Mills, a Massachusetts textile company credited with developing the first modern synthetic fleece in the late 1970s as an alternative to wool. It has expanded far beyond fleece since then. Alpha, Power Stretch, Power Shield, Neoshell, and others all sit under the same brand, according to Polartec's history page (polartec.com).

If you are buying finished garments, don't stop at the word Polartec. The specific fabric style matters. A 100-series lightweight fleece behaves completely differently from a 300-series heavyweight fleece, and a shell fabric like Neoshell is not even in the same category. Polartec supplies fabric to outdoor brands such as Arc'teryx, Mammut, and Marmot, plus many military contractors. That is why the same fabric name can show up in very different price ranges. It took me several order cycles and one pilling complaint to understand that the style code on the label is more important than the brand name on the hangtag.

What should I look for in a men's Polartec fleece pullover?

Your best bet is to match the fleece weight to the task. When someone asks me which pullover we should order, I ask one question first: What are they doing while wearing it? For general cold-weather work, a midweight 200-series pullover is usually the right starting point. Polartec labels the classic line as 100 for light, 200 for mid, and 300 for heavy. Those numbers tell you more about intended use than exact weight.

Our field staff in the Northeast do well with 200-series pullovers around freezing when they are moving between the truck and the job site. Crews doing hard physical work usually prefer a lighter grid fleece because it breathes; crews standing outside for long stretches choose the 300 series even though it is bulkier. A pullover normally means a half-zip or quarter-zip style. It layers easily under a shell or work coat, and avoiding a full front zipper keeps a cold line of air off the chest.

Retail prices for a 200-series pullover from established outdoor brands run roughly $80–$150 in the U.S. (based on online retailer listings in early 2025; verify current pricing before you order). If you are ordering for a team, ask for samples first. In 2023, a catalog-approved fleece turned out to be too boxy and too warm once people wore it for eight hours, and we had to return half the shipment.

How is military Polartec fleece different from commercial Polartec?

Military Polartec fleece is not a completely different fabric recipe just for soldiers, but it is typically held to a stricter purchasing specification. The U.S. military's ECWCS (Extended Cold Weather Clothing System) has included Polartec fleece layers for years. Genuine military-issue items meet government requirements for color, shrinkage, durability, and sometimes flame resistance. Those requirements can mean a different finish, a tighter manufacturing audit, or a longer certification trail than a typical consumer fleece.

I learned this in 2024 when we looked at bidding on a state contract that specified military-spec Polartec pullovers. The commercial fleece we normally bought looked almost identical, but it did not come with the documentation the buyer required. The fabric might have performed fine. The paperwork was the difference. If you are evaluating surplus or contracting goods, ask for the exact NSN or contract specification before comparing prices. ECWCS layer details are available through the U.S. Army Program Executive Office Soldier (army.mil).

What does viscose mean on a fabric label?

Viscose is a manufactured fiber made from cellulose, usually wood pulp. The wood is broken down into a thick liquid, forced through spinnerets, and then solidified back into fiber. That liquid is called viscose, and over time the name carried over to the finished fabric. You will also see it described as viscose rayon or simply rayon.

It is an understandable point of confusion because viscose sits between natural and synthetic. It starts as a plant material, but it goes through heavy chemical processing. The resulting fabric is soft, drapes well, and absorbs moisture better than polyester, which is why it shows up in uniform shirts, blouses, and linings. It also wrinkles easily, shrinks in hot water, and gets weaker when wet. That is why you rarely see viscose in performance outerwear. If someone suggests a viscose fleece as a substitute for Polartec, you are comparing two different categories of fabric, not two versions of the same thing.

Is viscose fabric a health concern?

For the person wearing it, viscose fabric is generally not a health problem. The serious health concerns in the viscose industry are mostly occupational, not consumer. Traditional viscose production uses chemicals like carbon disulfide, and poorly controlled factories have caused real harm to workers. Responsible manufacturers use closed-loop processes and test finished fabric for residue. If you are buying apparel or textiles for a company, the practical question is not whether the fiber is viscose; it is whether the supplier can show a third-party test certificate such as OEKO-TEX Standard 100.

I don't have hard data on how often viscose causes contact irritation, because nobody keeps that statistic for procurement managers. But in five years of uniform complaints, we have not had a confirmed skin reaction tied specifically to viscose. My experience is with utility workers in the Northeast, and if you are buying for people with existing skin conditions, your results may differ. The irritation we hear about usually traces back to harsh dyes, rough seams, or tight garments in heat. Treated responsibly, viscose is an ordinary textile.

How do you use a cooling towel?

Soak. Wring. Snap. Place it on your neck. That is the whole routine.

For the longer version: submerge the towel in water for one or two minutes until it is fully saturated. Wring it out until it is damp but not dripping. Snap it in the air a few times to open up the fibers, then wrap it around your neck or lay it across your forehead. The water evaporates and pulls heat from your skin, which is what creates the cooling effect.

It usually stays comfortable for 30 to 60 minutes depending on humidity and airflow. When it starts feeling warm or dry, soak it again and repeat. In humid weather, evaporation happens more slowly, so the effect is weaker. Keep expectations realistic: a cooling towel improves comfort, but it is not a treatment for heat illness. For outdoor workers, OSHA's heat stress guidance still comes back to water, rest, and shade. A cooling towel can be part of that comfort plan, but not a substitute for it.

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Lucia Bianchi

Lucia Bianchi is a woven apparel-fabric analyst covering cotton, linen, wool, rayon, denim, shirting, twill, satin, poplin, and blended garment fabrics. She applies the ISO 1833 series for fibre composition and ISO 105-C06 for laundering colourfastness while checking GSM, yarn count, usable width, shrinkage, skew, shade grade, drape, and surface defects. Her specification guides help designers, sourcing teams, and mills align fibre claims, lab dips, bulk tolerances, care conditions, and garment performance before production approval.